Razor bumps (medical term – pseudofolliculitis barbae) are due to chronic inflammation . They are typically seen in the beard area of men who shave. They are found most often in men of African descent with darkly pigmented skin and curly hair, and men of other races with curly hair. They can also be seen in the areas where women with curly hair shave.
Sufferers often notice itching and burning usually 24 to 48 hours after shaving. Small skin coloured or darker coloured bumps are seen mostly on the lower face, under the chin and on the front of the neck.
General Advice about razor bumps
- Men predisposed to razor bumps do better by avoiding close shaves or growing a beard.
- If shaving use a sharp razor. Avoid multi-blade razors, ideally using electric clippers or hair removal creams which can be used on the face.
- Pre- wash with an antimicrobial wash.
- Moisten the area with warm water or a warm wet towel.
- Use a moisturising shaving gel when shaving (avoid shaving with a drying soap) shaving along the direction of the hair growth.
- Avoid pulling or stretching the skin.
- Apply a soothing aftershave.
- Some doctors use steroid creams after shaving and whenever there is itching or irritation. Some people may be experiencing a low grade infection, so topical antibiotics may be prescribed.
How the clinic can help
Dealing with razor bumps at an early stage is very important to prevent the condition getting worse and leading to problems such as disfiguring bumps, uneven skin texture, pigmentation problems or even keloid scarring.
A long term approach is needed to maintain results, and generally a combination of therapies is needed.
- Medical grade cosmeceuticals available from this clinic can be used to reduce the colonization of bacteria that can aggravate inflammation and lead to secondary infection.
- Topical retinoid creams (which can be prescribed at the clinic) can be used on a nightly basis to help with the hard areas of thickened skin (hyperkeratosis).
- In clinic chemical skin peels can be done to smooth out the surface of the skin
- If areas of uneven pigmentation are present, the clinic can provide home care programmes for hyperpigmentation (e.g. Obagi Nu Derm or Zo Skin Health products) or in clinic treatments
- Because the skin is being treated as diseased skin, and to optimise results it is very important that sunscreen is used. This should be a physical rather than a chemical sunscreen
Chemical Skin Peels
Neostrata Prosystem Peel
This is this clinic’s first choice for razor bumps.
This is a Glycolic acid peel which can target a variety of skin concerns including razor bumps. The Neostrata Prosystem peels are particularly well suited for those with curly or coarse hair that can be the main contributors to this condition. These peels can be used to exfoliate and smooth the skin as well as help to reduce the appearance of any resultant dark spots.
Darker skin types have an increased risk of hyper or hypopigmentation (skin colour going lighter or darker) following deeper peels so a shorter exposure time to the peel and a gradual progression in peel strength is needed.
Before this peel can be undertaken, a period of preparation with specialist products is needed to acclimatise the skin.(The supply of this will be arranged through the Get Harley Portal)
A series of 4-6 peels every 3-4 weeks is recommended.
Some people may require additional peels to achieve optimal results. After the initial series, maintenance peels can be conducted seasonally (4 times per year) or more as desired. Peels can be performed at 3-4 week intervals, as long as the skin has fully healed and there were no complications.
After the treatment sunscreen must be used and a different set of post procedure products will be recommended.
If the skin is not fully healed, increase the interval to 4-6 weeks or longer as needed. To find out whether you are likely to be suitable, please click on the ‘Launch me’ icon below.
Obagi Medical Blue Peel Radiance
The Obagi Medical Blue Peel Radiance peel is an ideal adjunct for treating razor bumps.
It is a superficial chemical peel suitable for all skin types and contains a unique blend of Salicylic, Glycolic and Lactic acid to provide a gentle but effective peel, resulting in tighter, smoother, brighter looking skin immediately after just one use.
The salicylic acid (20%) is a great exfoliant. Additionally it has been proposed that glycolic acid may actually reduce sulfhydryl bonds in the hair shaft, resulting in straighter hair growth, and thereby reducing the chance for hair shaft curl and growth into the epidermis.
This is a relatively quick peel to do in the clinic.
For best results 4-6 peels should be done, 2-4 weeks apart.
ZO Skin Health Peels
Zo Skin Health is a luxury brand which has a range of medical grade products to use at home long term. Alongside the home based skin care there are 3 main peel options:
The retinol stimulation peel is used for rough texture, uneven tone, dullness and fine lines.
The products are used at home over 3-5 days. If on a 3 day peel (rather than 5 days) there will be redness at days 3-6. This can be repeated 2-3 times per year, but a period of at least 6 weeks’ acclimatization with retinols at home is needed before hand
- The Stimulator Peel which is done once a week for a month then every month after that
The Zo Medical 3 step peel is suitable for all skin types:
It is indicated for: Rough texture, acne, melasma, laxity, sun damage, large pores, dullness and wrinkles.
It is done in the clinic every 3-4 weeks until the desired results are achieved.
The recovery time is 5-7 days. It provides general exfoliation for a full range of benefits.
The skin needs to have undergone a period of 4-6 weeks preparation with a prescribed Zo programme for accelerated healing and enhanced results.
This can be done 1-3 times per year.
Retinoids must be stopped 3-4 days before the peel. AHA, BHA, BPO and retinols must be stopped 3-4 days before. Laser electrolysis, waxing and depilatories should be avoided 5-7 days beforehand.
Clinic based treatment: electrolysis permanent hair removal
Razor bumps start as ingrowing hairs, and electrolysis can be used to permanently remove ingrowing hairs where there are areas of limited involvement. This is a better option for women who may be experiencing excess hair on the chin who are experiencing pseudofolliculitis barbae.