What is Keratosis Pilaris?
Keratosis Pilaris () is a common, harmless skin condition that causes dry, rough patches and tiny bumps, often on the upper arms, thighs, cheeks of the face, or buttocks. These bumps are caused by a buildup of keratin (a hard protein) that plugs hair follicles. While there’s no cure, various treatments can significantly improve the skin’s appearance and texture.
Treatment of the condition usually includes the use of keratolytics and emollients. Various over the counter products may have been tried without success.
In white/pink skin the appearance looks like ‘chicken skin’. In skin of colour the lesions are less red and the darkness in the follicles is more prominent.
Results can take a long time, but specialist skin care products and chemical peels can help. Maintenance peels are recommended with this condition.
Clinic approved sunscreen is a must before any treatments are carried out.
Bio-Spicules
What Are Bio-Spicules? 🤔
Bio-spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures naturally derived from certain organisms, most commonly the freshwater sponge (Spongilla lacustris or Spongilla fragilis). They are a form of natural, bio-based microneedling.
Structure: They are made primarily of silica and have a porous, crystalline structure.
Mechanism: When applied to the skin in a cream or serum, these spicules penetrate the very top layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum). This penetration is gentle but sufficient to create thousands of micro-channels in the skin.
The action of bio-spicules addresses the core issues of KP through two main mechanisms:
1. Enhanced Exfoliation and Keratin Plug Breakdown
The tiny, sharp spicules act as a micro-abrasive exfoliant.
They physically dislodge and encourage the shedding of the built-up keratin plugs that are blocking the hair follicles, which are the root cause of the KP bumps.
This process helps to “unclog” the pores more effectively than traditional chemical or physical exfoliants.
2. Micro-Channeling for Deep Renewal
The creation of micro-channels triggers the skin’s natural healing process.
Increased Cell Turnover: This stimulation accelerates the renewal of skin cells. Fresh, healthy skin cells replace the rough, keratin-clogged surface cells.
Improved Product Absorption: The micro-channels allow any concurrently applied therapeutic ingredients (like moisturizers, humectants, or anti-inflammatory agents) to penetrate deeper into the skin, maximizing their effectiveness against dryness and irritation associated with KP.
Chemical Skin Peels - without downtime
NeoStrata® ProSystem peels can be used to exfoliate and normalise keratinisation to smooth the skin because they contain Alpha-Hydroxy acids. A period of acclimatisation with product from the Neostrata Skin care range will help to prepare the skin for the peel and make the process more comfotable
Peels can be performed at 3-4 week intervals, as long as the skin has fully healed and there were no complications. If the skin is not fully healed, increase the interval to 4-6 weeks or longer as needed
A series of 4-6 peels is recommended; some patients may require additional peels to achieve optimal results. Each peel is treated as a 2 area peel because the surface area is much greater than on the face.
After the initial series, maintenance peels can be conducted seasonally (4 times per year) or more as desired
The body is often less sensitive than the face. When peeling this condition on the body, the glycolic acid peel strength may be increased more quickly as tolerated.
However a more aggressive option is available which should produce results more quickly.
More aggressive peels with downtime
WOW facial® Resurfacing Peels offer a clinical-grade “reset” for KP-prone skin, using advanced acid blends to dissolve the “glue” holding those bumps together.
The Process
- Preparation The area is cleansed to ensure the peel can penetrate the keratin plugs effectively.
- Acid Application. The WOW resurface peel is applied to the affected area (arms, legs, or face).
- Active Phase. You may feel a mild tingling as the peel dissolves the protein buildup.
- Post-Care. Professional-grade hydration is applied to soothe the skin and lock in the results.
Unlike physical scrubs that can irritate the skin and cause redness, the WOW resurfacing peel works chemically and deeply:
Deep Keratolysis: The peel contains specialized acids (like Salicylic or Glycolic) that penetrate the follicle to break down the hardened keratin plugs.
Redness Reduction: Many KP sufferers also deal with rubra (redness). The WOW formulations include anti-inflammatory properties to calm the skin while it exfoliates.
Smoothing & Refining: By accelerating cellular turnover, the peel flattens the bumps and encourages the growth of soft, supple skin cells.
Hydration Boost: Unlike harsh soaps, these peels are designed to maintain the skin’s moisture barrier, preventing the dryness that often makes KP look worse
A note for people with darker skin. Caution is advised, so the peel will not be left on the skin for longer than a minute to reduce the risk of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. There are alternatives.
It is likely that 3-6 sessions will be needed to begin with, followed by periodic maintenance.
The pictures show the type of impact of peeling the skin with the Vi Peel range
A different peel is used for lighter and darker skin types (Vi Peel advanced for lighter skins and VI Peel Precision Plus for darker skins). The simple Vi Peel may be considered for those new to peels
The condition may require 1-3 peels for the optimal outcome.
It is really important to follow the aftercare instructions (which are also available on an iphone App)
- Results can be maintained with ViDerm Retinoic Serum to help loosen and remove dead skin cells before moisturiser
- For people with darker skin a pigment suppressing agent should also be included in the home treatment regimen
- You may also wish to buy a humidifier because low humidity dries out the skin.
- Loose clothes will need to be worn after the peel.
What is the long term outlook?
There is no cure for keratosis pilaris, however, it often clears up during adult life. This is because adults tend to be better at managing the skin condition with the measures discussed above.
For maintenance this clinic recommends Zo Skin Health Body Emulsion which is a multi-action body treatment that improves quality, smoothness and overall appearance of healthy skin.
Benefits
- Exfoliates dead skin cells to soften and smooth skin texture.
- Restores hydration and strengthens the skin’s protective barrier.
- Exclusive 12-hour time-release antioxidant complex to protect the skin.
- Reduces the appearance of brown spots and helps even skin tone.
Information
- Retinol: Stimulates epidermal renewal and collagen production, and helps even skin tone.
- Papain and saccharomyces cerevisiae extract: Provide enzymatic exfoliation to remove dead skin cells and smooth rough skin texture.
- Diacetyl boldine: Inhibit melanin production to even skin tone.
- Glycerin, glucosamine HCL, phospholipids, urea and algae extract: Replenish hydration and lipids to restore skin barrier function.
- Beta-glucan and avena sativa (oat) kernel flour: Calm and soothe irritated skin.
- Encapsulated vitamins E, C and A: 12-hour time-release antioxidant complex combats the appearance of free radical damage
- Acetyl tyrosine, proline and tocopherol: Cellular protection complex
Ideal sunscreen pairings
1. Intradermology® Synergy 6 NX-Gen SPF 50
Best for: Active Repair & Microbiome Balance Synergy 6 is more than just a sunscreen; it is a “functional” post-procedure cream.
The KP Edge: It contains Malic Acid, which provides a very gentle, continuous chemical exfoliation. This helps prevent new keratin plugs from forming immediately after your peel.
Barrier Support: It uses Squalane and Peptides to mimic the skin’s natural oils. Since KP is often driven by a compromised skin barrier, these ingredients “seal” the skin and prevent the dryness that makes bumps feel rougher.
Inflammation Control: The formula includes soothing ferments that dampen the redness (rubra) often associated with KP.
2. HydroPeptide® Solar Defense Body SPF 30
Best for: Soothing Body Areas (Arms & Legs) This is a favorite for KP because it is designed specifically for the body and focuses heavily on hydration without being “sticky.”
-
The KP Edge: It is infused with Aloe Vera and Cucumber, which provide an immediate cooling effect. If the skin feels slightly sensitive or “prickly” after a body peel, this calms it instantly.
-
Resveratrol & Green Tea: These powerful antioxidants protect the newly revealed skin cells from free radical damage, ensuring the “clear” results of your peel last longer.
-
Texture: It leaves a luminous glow that helps mask the appearance of any remaining uneven skin tone on the arms or thighs.
3. ZO® Skin Health Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 50
Best for: Sensitive Skin & “Heat” Protection ZO is the gold standard for post-procedure care because it uses a physical (mineral) shield.
The KP Edge: It features the ZOX12® complex, which provides 12-hour protection against not just UV, but also Infrared (IR-A) rays. Heat is a known trigger for KP redness; by blocking IR-A, this sunscreen keeps the skin cool and prevents the “flushing” of the bumps.
Mineral-Based: It uses Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. Because KP skin can sometimes be reactive to chemical filters, this non-irritating mineral barrier is the safest choice for highly sensitized, post-peel skin.
Melanin Suppression: It helps prevent the “brown” staining (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) that can occur in the spots where the KP bumps used to be.
NeoStrata® Restore Daytime Protection Cream SPF 23
Best for: Gentle Daily Resurfacing & Barrier Repair
The PHA Advantage (8% Gluconolactone & 2% Lactobionic Acid): PHAs are the “gentle cousins” of AHAs. They have a larger molecular structure, meaning they penetrate more slowly and don’t cause the stinging or irritation that traditional acids might on sensitive KP skin. This formula provides a constant, ultra-mild exfoliation that keeps those keratin plugs from reforming after your WOW peel.
The “Bionic” Moisture Magnet: Lactobionic acid is a natural humectant that binds water to the skin. Since dry skin is the #1 trigger for making KP bumps feel rough and “spiky,” this SPF ensures the skin stays plump and hydrated throughout the day.
Strengthens the Skin Barrier: Gluconolactone is clinically proven to strengthen the skin’s barrier function. By reinforcing this outer layer, it makes your skin less reactive and reduces the persistent redness often seen with Keratosis Pilaris.
Post-Peel Compatibility: This product was specifically designed to be used after clinical procedures. It is oil-free, fragrance-free, and non-comedogenic, making it incredibly safe for skin that has just been “resurfaced
Revision Skincare® Intellishade® TruPhysical SPF 45
Best for: Post-Procedure Camouflage & Advanced Age-Defying
100% All-Mineral Shield: This formula uses only Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. For skin that has just been resurfaced to treat KP, chemical filters can sometimes feel “spicy” or irritating. This 100% physical barrier sits on top of the skin to reflect UV rays without any risk of chemical irritation.
Redness Camouflage (Universal Tint): One of the biggest frustrations with facial KP is the persistent redness (rubra). Intellishade features a self-adjusting universal tint and light-diffusing minerals (like Boron Nitride) that instantly blur the appearance of bumps and neutralize redness, giving the skin a “polished” look while it heals.
THD Ascorbate (Vitamin C): It contains a very stable, high-potency form of Vitamin C. This is crucial for KP patients because it helps brighten any “staining” or dark spots left behind after the bumps have been cleared by the WOW peel.
The Peptide Powerhouse: With a proprietary blend of 3 different peptides, this SPF works to keep the skin’s surface firm and smooth. By supporting the skin’s structural integrity, it helps prevent the “sagging” of pores that can lead to new keratin blockages.
Microbiome Support: It includes prebiotic technology and extracts like White Birch and Plankton to encourage a healthy skin ecosystem. A healthy microbiome means a stronger skin barrier, which is the best long-term defense against the recurrence of KP.
Quiz: Which SPF is your KP’s perfect match?
1. Where is your Keratosis Pilaris located?
A: Mostly on my face, neck, and décolletage.
B: On my arms, legs, or back.
2. What is your biggest frustration with your skin right now?
A: The uneven color and redness; I want to hide the bumps!
B: The texture; I want to keep the skin exfoliating and smooth.
C: The sensitivity; my skin feels “hot,” reactive, and very red.
D: The dryness; my skin feels parched and tight.
3. What is your preferred finish on the skin?
A: A sheer, healthy tint that looks like foundation.
B: A lightweight, invisible cream that feels like nothing.
C: A cooling, hydrating lotion that gives a dewy glow.
D: A matte, clean finish with no chemical scent.
Your Results:
Mostly As: Your match is Revision Skincare® Intellishade® TruPhysical. Perfect for concealing redness on the face while providing high-end anti-aging benefits.
Mostly Bs: Your match is NeoStrata® Restore SPF 23. It’s your “peel in a bottle,” using PHAs to keep skin smooth and prevent new bumps.
Mostly Cs: Your match is ZO® Skin Health Broad Spectrum. Ideal for those who flush easily or have “hot” skin, as it blocks infrared heat.
Mostly Ds: Your match is Intradermology® Synergy 6 or HydroPeptide® Body. Choose Synergy 6 for your face/neck or HydroPeptide for large body areas like the arms.
| The Product | Best For… | Key “KP-Fighting” Ingredient | Texture/Finish |
| Revision Intellishade | The Multi-Tasker. Concealing facial KP redness. | Peptides + THD Ascorbate | Tinted & Glowing |
| NeoStrata Restore | The Texture Tamer. Keeping the skin smooth. | 10% PHAs (Gluconolactone) | Lightweight Cream |
| ZO Broad Spectrum | The Heat Shield. Calming angry, red skin. | ZOX12® (Infrared Protection) | Matte & Mineral |
| Intradermology | The Skin Reset. Total barrier repair. | Malic Acid + Squalane | Silky & Invisible |
| HydroPeptide Body | The Body Guard. Large areas (Arms/Legs). | Aloe, Cucumber & Peptides | Cool & Refreshing |